Pop's Finishing Tips
Pop's Finishing Tips
 |
| Each piece of solid wood furniture is an original, the result of
nature's handiwork. Every item has its own grain pattern and color,
according to the character of the wood. Light and dark areas blend
during the finishing process to produce the uniquely attractive look of
real wood furniture.While you can paint, varnish or finish your
furniture in other ways, one of the most commonly used finishing
processes is staining and topcoating. To get the best results, here are
our tips to help you finish your furniture using this method. |
|
 |
|
~ Most unfinished pieces need
additional fine sanding before finishing to avoid surface fuzz
or roughness that will show when the stain is applied. ~ Always
sand in the direction of the grain.
~ Pine, Alder and Parawood should be sanded with medium
sandpaper, generally no finer than 180-grit.
~ If wood fill has been used to cover nicks or holes, be sure
the residue has been sanded well. If not, the area around the
fill will not stain properly and may have a blotchy look. |
 |
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
~ Stains contain colored
pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and
must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take
as much as five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the "mud"
so that the color remains consistent as the contents are
used up.
~ To apply stain, we recommend using Foam Brushes or a HandiPainter. You
can use almost any type of rag (cotton works best) cut
approximately 10 inches square (larger ones
|
|
|
sometimes
get in the way). Stain can be applied in any
direction, usually cross-grain first.
~ Read and follow the directions on each container. The manufacturer
knows its products and will tell you how to get the best results. |
~ Do a test "doodle" on the piece
first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area check the stain
color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like
the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or
uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is
applied.
~ Stain one surface at a time, and do the corners and uneven areas
first. Do these areas when the applicator has the most stain on it so
you can get full penetration. You can then spread the rest on the flat
areas. As you stain each area, wipe with the grain to remove
excess stain, then move to another area.
~ As you finish, go back over the entire piece with a clean rag to pick
up all excess stain and wipe the surface dry. |
|
 |
|
~ Most clear topcoats are
designed to be wiped on. We recommend using a Foam
Brush, HandiPainter or small roller. Be sure to apply at
least three coats of clear finish to all seen areas.
Apply at least one coat of clear finish to all unseen
surfaces to prevent cracking as the piece continues to
dry out over the years. |
|
~ Allow coating to dry.
The surface will feel gummy if not fully dry, and drying
time will vary depending on weather conditions and
product. Sand the second dried coating with very fine
#400 or #600 wet/dry sandpaper to remove any fuzz. Wipe
sanded piece with a |
|
 |
 |
| tack cloth.
Feel the piece with
your hands
protection is not a major concern, the job is
done. If you have uneven sheen, apply additional
coats, sanding lightly and wiping with a tack
cloth between each application. If water
resistance is a goal, we recommend four coats of
finish on the surface area of concern, usually
the top. |
|
 |
| You now
have a beautifully finished piece of furniture
you will be proud of for years to come!
| | |
|
|
|
|
